In Phenom Penh my plan was to shoot through directly from Ta Khmau to Kampot but given the recent episode of food and water shooting through me, thought it wise to break the trip in two. So, that left a relatively straightforward 65km day of cycling Sunday to the provincial capital Takeo, and the Daunkeo2 hotel which turned out to be a perfect place to sleep under air-con during the hottest part of the day, before rolling around town later that afternoon when cooler to explore.
On Monday I cycled the remaining 87km to Kampot, a riverside town with lovely sunsets and more crumbling French architecture.
And today I climbed a hill. Bokor Hill. To Bokor Hill Station. I opted out of a steep hill climb earlier in the trip, taking a tuk tuk and motorbike from Sra’em to Preah Vineah Temple and wanted to make an effort to tackle this one. It was heavy going, climbing over 1000 metres in around 30km. Much of that was in the first 20km, with some up mixed in with some down after reaching the summit and a welcoming giant female Buddha. The people via the above hyperlink do a much better job of explaining the site than I could, so I will leave you with what I can provide and they can’t, photos from today.
It’s one I could have done without, but feel fortunate that I’ve made it this far into the trip without prior incident. Fingers crossed it won’t happen again though. Not fun.
I’ve just had my first night of the dreaded D&V.
I went back to the restaurant I had fried rice for lunch and do-it-yourself style BBQ for (Christmas) dinner the day before, and a lovely fish soup with plain rice earlier that day. The family that owns what translates to “Family BBQ” have been great to talk to, especially the owner’s brother who was in town for a short holiday, Kim Eng, an IT worker in Phnom Penh. He helped me compile a list of common dishes that I can order at similar eateries for the rest of my trip.
This time I had spicy chicken and rice, and afterwards a free dish of duck salad, prepared for me to say something like, thank you for entertaining us over the last couple of days, you seem like a nice guy, thanks for the stickers you gave the kids, and good luck for the rest of your trip.
I think that was the one that did it. Lots of leafy greens, and the meat too a funny texture, now I reflect on it. It couldn’t have been duck. More like seafood. Calamari?
In any case, I went to bed feeling very full and woke at around 2.00am with a need to rush to the toilet. I then spent the next five hours between the bathroom and the bed, experiencing what can be best described as violent expulsions of diarrhea and vomiting. Drink plenty of water, is the advice. My body rejected it within minutes of swallowing and I felt truly flushed out!
That’s the bad news.
The good news is that when I stopped drinking I stopped expelling, and I was able to take some Tinidazole antibiotics.
I was able to communicate to the hotel I wanted some fresh sheets and the bathroom cleaned. I was able to put on a brave face and convince mum I was doing just fine. “You look pale”, she commented. I felt pale.
I persisted with the cricket and finally got a radio stream where I could listen to Australia make quick runs against India as I rested. And before too long I was able to retain water, and even consume my normal breakfast, shake. Yum.
My 24-hour bug lasted 12 hours. I’ve slept for much of today and am feeling better, regrouping for a ride tomorrow.
I guess every trip is different, and everybody has their own holiday preferences depending on expectations and experiences, but for me I couldn’t wait to get out of Phnom Penh. It just wasn’t congruent with what this trip has been about. It’s fast-paced, in your face, hello mister tuk tuk? Moto? Cars and traffic, backpackers acting like they want to reek havoc. It just wasn’t my scene. As I said in a reply to one of Jenny’s comments, my “destination” in this trip has been the ride from town to town. That’s been the best part. My “journey” is what I’ve had to endure after I’ve parked my bike at the end of each day. And this was compounded in Cambodia’s capital. I was so used to being kind, and accepting the kindness of strangers that I wasn’t prepared for the in your face, manipulate as much as you can attitude of the country’s biggest city. It was full-on. And I didn’t like it.
I spent Christmas morning visiting the Pol Pot genocide museum, and then uploaded camera photos on the hostel computer which, by the way, can be seen by clicking on the Flickr stream to the left of this post (photos are not labeled but those that are followings progress should be able to guess where they were all taken, chronological order helps, any questions let me know). I then cycled out of the city. Tonight I’m in a satellite town, on the outskirts of Phnom Penh, feeling more myself. As you leave the city people increasingly say hello as you pass by, children start giggling at the site of a foreigner cycling past on a bike, and you experience genuine warmth and hospitality.
I’m at a lovely guesthouse, the Morehaheng which doesn’t appear on any Google search you may do, but is located here, if interested
And I’ve just had a lovely ‘Christmas dinner’ at the restaurant across the road. A do-it-yourself BBQ. Beef steak strips, liver, heart(!), squid, and prawns (which helped me feel at home). And beer on tap which despite being basically sober since Siem Reap, I partook in. Beautiful food, and friendly owners.
I’m without the aid of Sam’s Christmas present and what has been my main navigational aide of the trip for this leg. Despite attempts to fix it on the hotel lobby computer, located behind the desk not in front of, my Garmin navigation device, so good at pointing me in the right direction, is not working. For some reason, and I tried to cover them all, it simply wouldn’t recognise the routes I’d pre-planned. It didn’t really affect things too much as it was a straight forward ride, although I did miss a couple of the smaller lanes I was aiming for.
Another early start to catch scenes of sunrise over the Mekong. The beginning bit was special, passing though agriculture. The first couple of people I stopped to say “Sewer stay” to were ploughing using bullocks, the next were walking though the corn fields and using a sickle to cut those stalks with fully grown crops.
Morning-tea is beef noodles again. There are a couple of river crossings on the way, a mix of good and bad roads and then some super smooth highway coming into Phnom Penh.
Check into a rundown guesthouse, The Gecko for $10 but decide on being a true backpacker the day after and transfer to the Lovely Jubbly Villas. It’s dorm style but much newer with a nice vibe and a pool to chillax in and refresh before the next ride.
Merry Christmas to Granny and the Creamers, Oma and the Wissinks, friends, and the odd person that reads this that is neither. You’re not odd for reading this mind you, that would be a bad way to promote site traffic.
Missing Sam, family, and the traditional Dutch Christmas Eve buffet dinner.
A great sleep at the Reasmey Cheanich Hotel (Fan, $8). It’s in a quiet part of town so no early morning prayers from loud speakers (or crows from roosters) to be heard. Despite having multiple reviews on TripAdvisor it’s a brand new hotel and actually, not even officially open. That comes on Dec 27.
I spend the day visiting two of the local attractions. First up, the old French lookout tower. I’m surprised to find that it’s free, although it’s a precarious structure and climb to the top, steep stairs and no additional safety features. Half the stairs have two railings to cling on to, the other half have one and you find yourself gripping the steps in front of you for support.
After the tower I make my way to the bamboo bridge. It’s an amazing structure that provides access in the dry season to what looks like a sandbar on a map but is actually a sizable island with plenty of houses, shops, fields of crops and fruit, a school and a wat. In the wet season the river washes it away and access is only possible by boat. When the river drops again, the bridge is rebuilt using bamboo and bits metal wire to keep things together.
The island itself is an amazing place to explore, and even better if you get off the main roads and look for the smaller tracks. I had a great time exploring, taking photos and yes, interacting with the locals. Today’s highlight was a group of children playing marbles. Their version was to pick up your marble, place it on a finger, bend the figure back and catapult it into another’s marble. It looked fun enough but I told them I knew a thing or two about marbles and asked them to pay attention. I carved a circle into the dirt and moved ten paces away marking the distance with another line in the dirt. “Here’s how it works” I said. “You take your marble and you throw it towards the circle trying to get as close to it as possible”. Not speaking any English it really was a case of actions speaking louder than words. “Then, you use you thumb to hold back a finger and try and flick your marble into the circle. Lowest score wins. Ready? Let’s do this”. We played a few games, increased the distance to the ‘hole’ and played a few more. I’d like to think they were grateful for the instruction, and that they will now go around and teach the other kids on the island this strange new game, referencing the strange man from Oar-stra-lee who made them laugh by repeatedly, at the youngest one’s request, reenacting how the scabs on knees came from falling off the bike complete with screaming in agony. This bit was the funniest.
They showed me a large beehive and then said they had to go.
I didn’t do much on my day off. After checking into the May Li Mu Met guesthouse, offering river views from a balcony on the third floor, for $7. I did some washing, and some reading, and generally chilled out.
I had a walk around town and found a guy who said he could “fix” the screen on my phone for $35 that day or “replace” it for $65 when he could get the part in, tomorrow. I told him that was no good, that I was planning on leaving the town by 6:00am. He spoke English well and despite running an unorganized stall in the middle of a dark, claustrophobic market (you can picture it, right?) and a small feeling of unease, I left my phone with him asking him to fix it and said I would be back when requested, at 5:30pm.
I found a place for lunch, and perhaps giving the ok to go ahead before asking for the price cost me a buck (or two really) more than it should of, $3 for basic fried rice.
My mind was on my phone and I dropped into the stall after lunch to check in. I felt much better finding him working on it, phone in pieces, the 5:30pm collection time still standing.
I walked to the river and asked how much a coconut was “tur lie bon marn?”, “something something something” came the reply. Excellent. I nodded and took a seat.
I paid with a large note and got a little in change. Turned out I had agreed to pay $3 for a coconut juice. Right, must be a little more diligent. I hadn’t bothered much to date, most of the folk I’d met hadn’t taken advantage of me. My fault of course, not theirs. Mr. Turley and grade 12 economics came to mind. ‘Caveat emptor’, let the buyer beware. Indeed. It works out well as a memory aid for me. Not tur lee bon marn, instead tur lie bon marn.
I sat for another hour after paying reading my kindle, making the most of the setting.
Hotel. Then back to the phone shop before dinner. There was a problem. He couldn’t fix it. A new screen was required. The good news was the delivery of the required screen was coming tonight, at 7:00pm, and that it would only cost $50. He said he thought he could drop the phone off at my hotel by 8:00pm. Crumbs, I thought.
Dinner. Shower. Bags packed for early start. Down in the lobby by 7:30pm to read while I waited. At 9:30pm I’d had enough and decided to go to bed, consoling myself that an extra night to sort things out wouldn’t be a big deal. A knock on the door at 10:00pm and it’s him. A sigh of relief. I offer an extra $10 but he doesn’t take it.
Broken sleep thinking about the next day’s journey. 5:00am alarm and I’m up. It was dark.
The timer starts at 5:52am and I’m energised to be on the road so early. Beautiful to watch the sun rise, and a great morning of cycling with my first cloudy day, a big difference maker.
Now the road from Stung Treng is an interesting one. Built by the Chinese only a few years ago it has fallen apart about as fast as the plastic toys you got/give for Christmas. After 30kms of beautiful riding the surface turns to broken bitumen and dirt and you spend 60 of the next 90 kilometers with minivans, trucks and 4WDs tearing along at breakneck speed sending dust everywhere.
I really feel for the folk that live by the side of this road. Sure, it will be nice when it’s done but imagine having your home and roadside stall here. Not pleasant for them, and not inviting for passers by.
I stop and chat to some men doing roadworks. Chinese. They tell me that yesterday they laid this section (a kilometer??) only to test it today and find it wasn’t up to standard. So they were pulling it all up and trying again. Nice going fellas.
On a better section I flag down a motorbike carrying food. I hadn’t seen them until today and was curious what I might find. There were all sorts of goodies in plastic bags. I take some fried banana, fried something else, sticky rice and a rice-based desert, all for 200riel (50c).
I find my shortcut, shown here by the yellow line heading towards to river and am thankful I am on another road. It’s bumpy tarmac, but it’s better than gravel.
Instead of heading south I head north for 10kms to see the 108 column Wat Moi Roi. Being the Aussie that I am and remembering holidays as a child near Coffs Harbour’s big banana I couldn’t resist making he detour to see Cambodia’s biggest wat.
I took off my shoes and hat, made a small donation, sat on my legs with my toes pointing away from the Buddhas just like Moo had taught me, and said a prayer.
On the way to Kratie I visited a second wat, at Phnon Sombok, this time for the view. Too many big trees to see much of the Mekong but a nice view over the fields.
Stop for some rice paper rolls at a shop street-side (3 for 2000riel), then after inhaling them wave down a mobile vendor for another round (3 smaller ones for 1500riel).
Friday was another rest day. I washed the bike, chain and components and rotated the tyres after noticing the back tyre was wearing considerably faster than the front. Not surprising given that’s where the weight is, I suppose. Will they get me to HCM where I’m planning a big service or do I investigate in PP?
Roll around town for a bit, and spend some time trying to sneak some photos of women in pyjamas. It’s not as bad as it sounds! Fashion could be considered strange for anyone dropped into a totally different culture. This is one I’ve found strange. It doesn’t matter what time of day it is, or what the activity is, there are Cambodian women and girls going about their day in pyjamas.
Another meal at the guesthouse and early to bed.
Up early again Saturday but for one reason or another I’m slow to get going. The big one is I can’t find my gloves. Empty everything. Can’t find them. Ask at reception. No. Dig around reception myself with a vague feeling the last time I took them off was registering. Still no. Bummer.
Lovely rural scenes heading out of Kratie.
Stop for an early bowl of noodles (plus plenty of tea) and have a nice chat to the owner, teaching each other a few new words.
The next stretch has a Muslim feel with plenty of headwear and mosques.
Despite the rapid changes that have occurred, I am constantly amazed by the simplicity of life here. There was a sculpture of an oxen pulling a cart. You look at it and think, ah back in the day, this was what it must have been like for the people here. What hard work. But down the road you see oxen pulling carts and you realise how little things have changed for some. These people have not benefited from industrialisation!
I can’t remember where I got my information from but I head towards a river crossing. It was a fun experience in itself but I think the roads were supposed to be better on the eastern bank from here to Kampong Cham. I climbed the stairs and spent the trip with the captain. He was a diminutive bloke, who wore a serious sun protecting hat. He did take it off in the end and wanted me to get a photo of him without headgear.
The western side of the Mekong had a different feel. A few small hills close to the river and houses on some seriously high poles to cope with the flooding in the rainy season.
I stopped into a BBQ eatery and had a couple of rice wine shots with the locals. I actually stopped drinking from Siem Reap (excluding one beer in Kratie). I haven’t missed it but thought I’d join in the fun here, for the experience. It really wasn’t that strong, a small buzz, unlike the Chinese version I remember drinking which was very strong!
Look out for Cambodia to do well in future volleyball tournaments. From what I’ve seen it’s clearly the most played sport here.
It was time for another refreshing coconut juice. This time just 50c.
An hour later I’ve made it to Kampong Cham and it’s wide, nicely sealed streets. Makes a change from the dusty provincial capitals I’ve stayed in over the last week!